Long confined to farms, hens are increasingly making their way into gardens as pets. Endearing, curious and useful in the vegetable patch, they are nonetheless social animals with precise needs — and keeping them is governed by law, even for just a few birds. A well-kept hen can live up to around ten years.
A group, never a hen on its own
Hens live in groups: you need at least three. A lone hen becomes bored and develops behavioural problems. The hierarchy (the “pecking order”) is normal; it settles down if each bird has enough space, several feeding and watering points, and areas to take refuge.
The henhouse and the run
- Space for natural behaviours : scratching, pecking, flapping their wings and taking dust baths. Provide an area of sand or dry earth for these baths, which are essential against external parasites.
- Access to the outdoors is strongly recommended; the run must be fenced with wire mesh and buried to protect the hens from predators, foxes first and foremost.
- Raised perches (compulsory) for sleeping and taking shelter, suited to the size of the birds.
- Nesting boxes away from the light and in a quiet spot, lined with bedding, so that the hens lay in peace.
- Bedding that is loose and dry (5 to 10 cm) on a non-slip floor, kept clean to prevent parasites and foot problems.
- Light : the henhouse must receive daylight (at least ~5 lux during the day, the intensity needed to read a newspaper); artificial lighting must not extend the day beyond 16 hours.
⚠️ Beware of commercial henhouses : many do not meet the minimum legal dimensions. Check how many birds they are actually intended for.
Diet
Hens are omnivores, but not everything suits them. The basis should be a complete feed for hens (meal or pellets) covering all their needs: cereals, plant proteins, minerals and vitamins. This can be supplemented with a little grain to peck at on the ground. Fresh water must be available at all times.
To avoid: meat, bread, pasta, potatoes and, more generally, table scraps.
Behaviour and enrichment
Without something to do, boredom encourages feather pecking and cannibalism. Provide things to keep them busy continuously: straw bales, hay nets, pecking stones, varied materials rotated over time. A rich environment is the best prevention.
Health: observe every day
A healthy hen is lively, with intact plumage and legs and footpads free of lesions. Watch out for the appearance of listlessness, ruffled plumage, isolation, diarrhoea, lameness or swellings. Red mites and other parasites are common: rigorous henhouse hygiene is essential. When in doubt, consult your vet — at the practice, we care for pet hens.
Swiss legal framework — to know before getting started
- Compulsory registration : every keeper of hens, even just a few, must register with the cantonal coordination service. This is essential in order to be alerted and protected in the event of an epizootic (in particular avian influenza, sometimes with a confinement requirement).
- Training : a certificate of competence may be required above certain thresholds; beyond 10 hens, training requirements apply (farmers and keepers registered before 1.9.2008 are exempt).
- Prohibited practices : certain interventions are banned (art. 20 OPAn); breeding for traits harmful to welfare is prohibited.
Choosing your hens well
Favour healthyanimals, by visiting the breeding farm of origin. Avoid breeds with extreme traits (e.g. heavily feathered legs) that restrict movement, as well as buying from abroad.
Find out more (FSVO)
- Public information leaflet — “Hens in the law”
- Topic sheet 10.4 — “Keeping hens as a hobby”
- Avian influenza recommendations for hobby keepers
Common diseases
Like all birds, the hen hides illness for a long time: by the time the signs become visible, the situation is often already serious.
A hen that stays on its own, with ruffled feathers and a pale comb, that is drowsy or stops eating should alert you. In birds, these subtle signs are often already late ones: you must not wait.
Parasites are common. Red mites are small parasites that bite at night and hide during the day in the henhouse; they wear the hens down and can cause anaemia. Intestinal worms are also common. Rigorous henhouse hygiene and dust baths limit these problems.
The airways can be affected (coryza and other respiratory diseases): sneezing, discharge from the nose or eyes, noisy breathing. In the laying hen, an egg can become stuck (difficult laying): the hen stays crouched, puffed up, straining without result. This is an emergency.
Reminder: avian influenza is subject to official surveillance. In the event of unusual mortality in the group, alert your vet promptly, and follow the confinement instructions when they are announced.
When to see a vet promptly a hen that is isolated or listless, pale comb, ruffled plumage, sneezing or discharge, lameness, persistent diarrhoea, presence of parasites, prolonged stop in laying.
When to see a vet urgently laboured breathing (open beak), a prostrate hen that refuses to eat, a puffed-up hen straining without managing to lay, several animals ill or dead within a short time.
Key points in birds, a visible sign is often already a late sign: do not wait. A clean henhouse and daily observation prevent many problems. This information does not replace a consultation.