The cockatoo is a bird with all-white plumage, except for the black-plumaged species. What sets it apart from other psittacines, in any case, is the absence of green or blue colour in its plumage. It is quite easy to recognise, with its erectile crest that rises at the slightest emotion.
It is an easy bird to tame and an adorable companion. It is very affectionate, playful, intelligent and sensitive. But in return it demands a great deal of availability and presence. You must devote several hours a day to it. If it does not have enough contact with humans, it will scream more and more to attract attention, and then will come feather plucking and self-mutilation.
Living environment:
In the wild: it is native to Australia, but also from the Philippines to the Solomon Islands.
In captivity:
Enclosure sizes are regulated: see under aufuret.ch
The frame of the aviary must be metal, and the partitions or walls made of indestructible material. Watch out for any beginnings of a hole or rough spot, because the cockatoo will happily enlarge it. Even bricks do not withstand their powerful beak. The larger a cockatoo, the more destructive it is. Be careful about where the aviary is placed, as it can be extremely noisy.
Diet:
Dry food: nuts, seeds (sunflower, niger seed, peanut, hemp seed, pine nuts, safflower, linseed), cereals (canary seed, millet, sorghum, maize, oat groats, rice, blé pécardi), or a parrot mixture.
Fresh food: greens, vegetables, fruit, possibly soft food (mash), vitamins… according to the bird's tastes.
Treats (in moderation!): cakes, biscuits, dried fruit, yoghurts, jam, and sometimes even ham or chicken!
Reproduction:
The greatest difficulty in breeding cockatoos is forming a compatible pair. An incompatibility results in stress, illness, and injuries that can go as far as killing. A pair is formed with young birds. Since it is impossible to tell the male from the female before sexual maturity, a DNA test will be necessary. The clutch is generally 2 eggs, and white cockatoos take turns incubating. The incubation time ranges from 23 to 30 days depending on the species.
Common diseases
Like all birds, the cockatoo hides illness for a long time: by the time the signs become visible, the situation is often already serious.
A cockatoo that keeps its feathers fluffed up, stays motionless at the bottom of the cage, is drowsy or refuses to eat should alert you. In birds, these subtle signs are often already late ones: you must not wait.
The cockatoo is particularly sensitive to a lack of attention. Boredom, stress or loneliness often drive it to scream, then to pull out its feathers and bite its skin (feather plucking, self-mutilation). Certain infections also affect the feathers and beak (beak and feather disease, or PBFD) and cause lasting damage to the plumage.
An infection called psittacosis (or chlamydiosis) can make the bird listless, fluffed up and without appetite; it can also be transmitted to humans. A diet that is too poor eventually lacks certain vitamins (especially vitamin A). The beak and claws can also grow too long.
The cockatoo lives a very long time: regular veterinary check-ups, even when all is well, help to detect problems early.
When to see a vet promptly repeatedly fluffed-up feathers, a less lively bird, pulled-out feathers or deteriorating plumage, an overly long beak or claws, abnormal droppings (colour, runny) that persist.
When to see a vet urgently difficult breathing (open beak, tail bobbing with each breath), a bird prostrate at the bottom of the cage refusing to eat, self-mutilation that is bleeding, marked listlessness with fluffed-up feathers.
Key points in birds, a visible sign is often already a late one: do not wait. Presence, a varied diet and regular check-ups prevent many problems. This information does not replace a consultation.