The Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is undoubtedly the reptile that best deserves to be called an exotic pet. Friendly towards humans, of a size that is both large enough to make it a spectacular animal and small enough for its housing to be easily managed, it is hardy and easy to keep.
CLASSIFICATION
It belongs to the agamid family. It is characterised by a generally robust appearance and by the triangular shape of its head. Unlike members of other families such as the Lacertids, agamas cannot shed their tail to escape a predator (= autotomy mechanism). Another key feature, common to all agamas, is their acrodont dentition (teeth set on top of the jawbone).
Bearded Dragons belong to the genus Pogona. It is a fairly stocky animal, about fifty centimetres long, whose back of the head, neck and flanks are covered with spiny scales that can provide protection against predators, making the lizard particularly unpleasant to swallow. Another distinctive feature is its ability to raise a kind of 'beard' covered with spiny scales while opening its mouth. This display, aimed at predators, is intended to make the lizard appear bigger than it really is.
It is native to Australia, more precisely to the desert or semi-desert savannahs bordering the most arid area at the heart of the country. Bearded Dragons have a diurnal lifestyle, both terrestrial and semi-arboreal. They often perch in trees, on posts or termite mounds, to sleep or watch over their territory. Within a group, the dominant individual is easy to identify, as it tends to occupy the highest position on the 'perches'.
BIOLOGICAL DATA
Reptiles are all cold-blooded (with a variable body temperature); however, every reptile has an optimal temperature threshold (the PAT = Preferred Average Temperature) that allows its body to function properly and from which it cannot depart without consequences: if their internal temperature drops, they can neither digest nor move, and their immune defences collapse. Conversely, too high a temperature reaches a threshold called the Critical Maximum Temperature (CMT), at which they risk death from hyperthermia. These values range from 35°C for the PAT to 44°C for the CMT.
You must therefore be careful during handling sessions, so as not to expose it for a prolonged period to temperatures that are too low or to draughts.
As for the senses, the dominant one is sight. It allows them to detect predators and to identify others of their kind, even at considerable distances. They are even able to distinguish colours.
Their lifespan ranges between 4 and 10 years.
REPRODUCTION
Sexual maturity is reached at the age of 12 to 24 months. It is essential to establish a rest period of about 2 months (winter) during which the temperature and the length of lighting are gradually reduced. During this period, the animals stop feeding.
It is advisable to separate the two individuals for about 2 weeks before mating in order to feed them equally.
The pair can be put back together, which may give rise to 3 behaviours: 1) Indifference — individuals too young, or not attracted to each other. 2) The female may attack the male (who fairly quickly stops his advances). 3) The male performs the courtship display; mating lasts 2 to 3 minutes.
The interval between mating and the first clutch is 21 days; the female lays between 10 and 30 eggs, and the process takes several hours. The average number of clutches per season is 3, up to a maximum of 6, with a 1-month interval between each clutch. The juveniles hatch between 85 and 100 days. HABITAT
Cohabitation is possible, but should be avoided with two adult males, and beware of overcrowding. Care should also be taken during the breeding season. Avoid adopting a lone female because of the risk of egg binding if the eggs remain unfertilised; a male is preferable.
A desert terrarium, with a suitably high temperature and low humidity. The ideal is a glass terrarium specially designed for reptiles. Its height and floor area are very important. While a basic size is 100 cm x 60 cm x 60 cm, some authors even suggest a length of 1.80 m.
Layout: welfare + hygiene!
Heating: the PAT must be reached. Two options: either a temperature gradient so the Pogona can move from one zone to the other (27-30°C and 32-37°C), or cooling down at night (20-22°C).
Lighting: UVA + UVB tube of the Zoomed type, replace once a year. Possibly outdoors if very warm, with shade. Respect day/night cycles: 14/10 h!
Humidity: dry.
Shelters: essential. For the Pogona, large branches, oak bark, concave cork pieces.
Water bowl: available at all times, possibly a small pool for those that like to soak!
Floor substrate: sand, possibly a Biorep-type substrate. Change every 3-4 months; clean the terrarium with diluted bleach, 90° alcohol or pet-shop cleaning products.
+ Plants, untreated, without thorns, resin terrarium backgrounds of the stone type such as climbing walls.
DIET
Pogonas are omnivores; a half-and-half diet is recommended: 50% plant matter, 50% animal protein. 1) Ca/P ratio = 2/1. 2) Pay attention to the nutrition of the prey — good-quality food and corrected calcium intake will directly benefit the dragon. 3) Avoid freshly caught insects taken near an area treated with pesticides. 4) Vary the menu. 5) Match the size of the food to the lizard (prey no larger than the dragon's head, smaller for a gravid dragon). 6) Watch out for injuries caused by the prey. 7) Feeding time: 1-2 h after the lighting + heating come on, and 3-4 h before they switch off for the night. 8) Juveniles 1-2 times a day and adults once a day or every other day.
Here are some of the most readily accepted foods… (with a correct calcium/phosphorus ratio)
- Plants
- Animal origin
- Alfalfa
- Crickets (especially for juveniles)
- Dandelion
- Cockroaches
- Clover
- Mealworms (dusted with calcium)
- Chicory
- Giant mealworms
- Watercress
- Locusts
- Figs
- Papaya
- Oranges
Common diseases
In the Bearded Dragon, most diseases are linked to unsuitable terrarium conditions (heat, UVB light, diet).
The most important point to remember: a healthy dragon depends first and foremost on its environment. Adequate heat, a good UVB lamp and a calcium-rich diet prevent a large proportion of problems.
The most common disorder is a lack of calcium and UVB. The bones become fragile, the animal trembles, and the jaw may become soft or deformed (this is known as 'metabolic bone disease'). Without UVB, the calcium provided by the diet is poorly used.
If the dragon swallows substrate (sand, shavings), it can block the digestive tract (a blockage called 'impaction'). The animal stops passing droppings, eats less and becomes bloated. Worms or parasites in the intestine (internal parasites) are also possible, especially in a recently acquired animal.
Difficult breathing, with the mouth open and bubbles of mucus around the nose or mouth, suggests a respiratory tract infection. It often occurs when the terrarium is too cold or too humid.
The veterinarian's advice A good-quality UVB lamp, replaced once a year, and a regular calcium intake are your best allies for keeping the bones strong.
When to see a vet promptly trembling, deformed limbs or jaw, loss of appetite, absence of droppings, a limp or apathetic animal.
When to see a vet urgently open-mouthed breathing, bubbles of mucus, an animal that no longer responds or has refused all food for several days.
Key points most diseases in the dragon come from an unsuitable terrarium: get the heat, UVB, humidity and calcium right. This information does not replace a consultation.